Useful Tips

How to lay the tiles on the wall correctly: a master class on bathroom lining

Previously, tiles were laid on a cement-sand mixture, to which PVA or Bustilat glue was added. You can, of course, do so, but it will be more difficult to work. For more comfortable work, use ready-made compositions they are also called “tile adhesive” because they contain adhesive components, because sometimes they say that the tiles are “glued” to the walls. Compositions come in two forms:

  • in buckets - mastics, ready to use,
  • in bags - dry mixes that require dilution with water.

Professionals mainly use dry mixes. If necessary, they can correct an imperfect wall, making the layer a little thicker or thinner. Another plus: they retain their plasticity longer, which allows you to make adjustments some time later. Mastics work on an ideal wall and there can be no deviations: the layer is too thin.

In any building materials store, they will offer several types of tile adhesive

When choosing glue for a tile, you can choose it for specific tasks. So there are compositions in which there are additives that increase the water-repellent properties of the wall or floor. This is important in the kitchen and in the bathroom. There are frost-resistant, it is useful if you put it in an unheated room or on the street. You can find glue with bactericidal properties: it will not allow mold and mildew to develop, which is in demand in wet rooms.

Level the surface

The first thing that is removed from the walls is the old coating and what may fall off. If there are oily stains, they are removed, or they simply cut down part of the plaster along with the absorbed oil. The walls are tapped with a wooden mallet to determine if there are voids. They occur if the plaster has peeled off, but has not yet blown out. If you stick a tile on such a site, everything will collapse under its weight. Therefore, you embed all such places yourself.

Before laying the tiles on the wall they are aligned

A smooth bar is applied to the cleaned base and assess how smooth or curved the walls are. If the surface of the wall is strongly convex or curved, it is better to adjust everything with plaster to a level. Then laying the tile on the wall will be very simple. If the walls are relatively smooth, only too large indents are aligned: irregularities (protrusions or pits) that are more than 5 mm. The protrusions need to be squeezed, the pits should be filled with a stucco mixture, the cracks should be expanded, moistened, and also covered with plaster.

Prepared wall is preferably primed. Betonocontact or another composition with similar characteristics is best suited for these purposes. It penetrates a sufficiently large thickness deep into the wall, linking all the particles. After drying, the surface becomes rough, tiled glue "sticks" to it very well.

The primer is applied with a wide brush or roller.

How to start

There are several possible starting points. If it’s very simple, you can lay out the first row immediately from the corner, I am guided along the floor line. But the first row will become smooth and without problems only if the floor is perfectly flat, without any deviations. Otherwise, you will trim the tiles to somehow get vertical seams. As a result of these clippings, the second and all subsequent rows can “walk”. It will be very hard and unpleasant to work. Therefore, it is better to spend time and mark the wall, finding the "start" points.

Wall marking

Options for placing tiles on the wall

If you don’t really care about the small pieces of tile that you have to put in the corners and at the top, under the ceiling, you can skip this step. But if you go so that the entire tile lies symmetrically, before laying the tile on the wall, you will have to do the layout:

  • Find the middle of the wall. You can even draw a vertical line to a certain height.
  • Lay out the tile with respect to it. In the middle there may be a seam or the middle of a tile. Depends on how many pieces (whole) fit on the wall. To find out, first add the thickness of the seam to the width of the tile, then divide the length of the wall by the resulting number. Find how many whole pieces will lie on the wall. If the number is odd, put the center of the tile on the middle of the wall, if it is odd, a seam will be placed on the marked line.

Several layouts in difficult places

If it so happens that only narrow strips remain at both ends, it is advisable to redo the layout. If the center of the wall was in the middle, try spreading it from the seam, and vice versa. It should come out better.

With the placement of tiles in height, the situation is slightly different. In some cases, the seam is done at some specific level. In the bathroom, this is often the edge of the installed bathtub. If there are no such requirements, you can also do the following: find the center, position the tiles relative to it (draw on the wall). Thus, you will find how to trim the tiles of the upper and lower rows.

When laying, always check the plane

Vertically, you can arrange another way: from the ceiling, mark the first tile, and so on to the bottom. In this case, only the bottom row will have to be cut. This is not entirely correct, but tile consumption is slightly less.

And in any case, calculating how to put the tile on the wall, mark the level where the first row will end. It usually serves as a starting point. It is from here that tile laying begins.

Start line

According to the results of the layout, you have a line where the first row ends. Here at this height they beat a flat bar. Leaning on her tile, put out the starting row, and on it all the subsequent ones. The last one is the first row in which the tile will have to be cut.

If you have a laser plane builder, it’s much easier to work

Usually, profiles for working with drywall are used as a support bar, but an even, dry bar can also be used. At a given height, it is attached to the wall with screws or dowels (depending on the wall material). To lay the tiles on the wall with your own hands without problems, you need to fasten often enough: so that there are no sagging. Be sure to check the horizontal installation. Even the slightest deviations should not be.

How to lay tiles on a wall

The technology of laying tiles on the wall is simple. It consists of several simple steps:

  • Glue for tiles is applied with a wide spatula to the wall, its excess is removed.
  • A layer with a thickness of about 3 mm is applied to the tile, evened out more or less evenly, making sure that the edges are smeared.

How to apply mortar to a tile

Surplus removed with a notched trowel

Installing tiles on the wall

How to cross

It's all. Further, all actions are repeated. There are, of course, different points that still need to be clarified - how to cut tiles, how to draw corners, but the basic steps are described.

A few nuances of the complete process. First, in the marked places on the installed plank, the last whole tiles are glued (those that do not need to be trimmed). When laying out, you marked their position. It is very important to set them correctly. To do this, each level is checked in the vertical and horizontal planes. If the tile geometry is perfect, you can also check the verticality / horizontalness at the edges. Then they take a long level or a level bar with a shorter level and check how evenly one lighthouse bar is set relative to another. They should be in the same plane. Then with the help of this bar, they control whether each next tile is correctly set.

Description is one thing, and seeing everything with your own eyes is another. The video demonstrates the technology, after watching, you will understand exactly how to lay the tiles on the wall.

Glue thickness on the wall

For those who have laid tiles on the wall - the first experience of this kind of work, questions may arise about how thick the adhesive layer is. This value depends on how smooth the walls are. If they are perfect, you can apply the minimum layer allowed in the instructions for composition. If the walls are only relatively smooth, the “starting” layer may be 3-4 mm. Further, as necessary, it can slightly decrease or increase, correcting the irregularities of the wall.

There are several techniques for laying ceramic tiles. Far from always glue is applied both on a tile and on a wall. Some masters apply the composition only on the wall, others only on the tile, someone recommends dipping it in water before applying glue, others do not. Choose the option that seems more correct to you. But it is more convenient for novice tilers when the mortar is on the wall and on the tile: it is easier to move and level it.

Tile adhesive manufacturers advise applying it to the wall, removing excess with a notched trowel, but this means a perfectly even base. Based on these recommendations, the cost of laying one square is calculated.

Adhesive consumption based on tile size

With a different technique, the flow rate increases by 50% or even 100%, since you have to adjust the wall. But the prescribed size of the teeth of the spatula is definitely worth listening to.

How to cut tiles

There are several ways. For small volumes and not very thick tiles, a manual tile cutter is suitable. This is a device consisting of a platform on which tiles are laid. Surfacing is attached to the platform, along which the cutter moves. The torch moves with the handle, ripping up a durable coating. On the same handle, an emphasis is usually installed, with which the tile is broken along the line drawn by the cutter.

Another way is the grinder, but it is very noisy and dusty. In addition, making a perfectly even cut will not work, but it will do for an emergency.

If necessary, round holes are cut out using a crown of suitable diameter, which is worn on the drill. During drilling, so that there is as little dust as possible, the workplace is constantly watered with water. The result is a perfect hole, everything looks decent.

Finished round holes in ceramic tiles

If you need to cut off a too thin strip, you can’t do it on the tile cutter: it just doesn’t break off. Then, having drawn the line with a cutting disc or a rod (for some companies, the cutting element is made in the form of a rod), the thin edge is broken off. In general, there are special tongs for this, but it also works well with pliers.

Tong tongs

If at the same time the edge turns out to be very uneven, it can be leveled a bit with a file or emery paper fixed on a bar.

Decoration corners

If the tile is laid evenly, the internal corners of the questions do not cause. Difficulties may arise only with the installation of crosses. Just rotate them so that they do not interfere or break off the protruding parts. In general, they are joined neatly in the corners; finally, the seam is formed using grout.

There are more profiles for the inner corners. They are selected in the tone of the grout, installed in the corner, leveled into a level, and then attached to the screws or dowels. When laying tiles in the corner, tiles are supported on them. It turns out the finished corner seam.

Interior profile design

Outside corners are harder. If you simply join the tiles, overlapping the edges, it turns out ugly. To normally make the outer corner, you have to cut the edge at 45 °.

How to make the outer corner when laying tiles

This can be done on a professional tile cutter. But not everyone has such equipment. Then you will have to work as a grinder. The first cut, at about the right angle, is made into a smooth diamond blade. It should not have slots and holes, the spraying should also be even.

These are disks on the grinder: for cutting and grinding

It does not turn out very smoothly, and the outer edge has a rather large thickness. But this is only preprocessing. We bring the necessary parameters to the saw with a grinding nozzle with the same disk. See the video for more details.

If you don’t feel like trimming with such trimming, there is another possibility - to make a corner with a special plastic corner.

Another way to make an outside corner

Another video on how to make joins and seams when laying tile.

To completely lay the wall tiles with your own hands, watch another video tutorial.

How to tile an apron in the kitchen

When decorating a kitchen apron with ceramic tiles, the technology is practically no different from that described above. There is no need to calculate the number of vertical rows. The place of "start" is determined by the height of the countertop: it should start 5-10 cm above the edge of the tile. Fix the bar at the required level, align it exactly to the horizon, and you can start.

An example of a tiled apron on a work wall in a kitchen

An apron in the kitchen is usually made on the work wall. If this is not one wall, but two or three, you can start from one of the corners.

How to tile an apron in the kitchen

If it is laid out from a small-sized tile, undercuts may not be very striking. If you want to do everything symmetrically, repeat the layout and start from the center, as described above.

Surface preparation

Ceramics can be laid on two types of mixtures: tile adhesives and cement-sand mortars. There are other binders, but they are used in special cases and have no relation to everyday construction tasks. Base preparation depends on the type of solution. Having preferred glue (and this is the most popular solution today), the walls are plastered or sheathed with drywall. In any case, the base plane should strive for ideal.


Wall cladding requires a special tool. Make sure that before starting work you already have:

  • trowel or putty knife,
  • comb (notched trowel),
  • bubble level
  • water level or laser
  • wire cutters
  • tile cutter
  • 1.5 m rule
  • diamond wheel grinder,
  • tiled crosses / wedges,
  • foam sponge
  • rubber spatula.

Roulettes and other hammers were not included in the list, it is understood that they are already in every household. When mixing glue, it is difficult to do without a drill with a nozzle, therefore its presence is desirable. You can knead with your own hands, but correctly - with the help of a tool.

The main rule of facing: visually important places need to give a whole tile. The area of ​​the trimmed tile is located where it will be less noticeable or hidden. Calculate the number of plates before leveling the base. You may have to level it with a slightly larger layer if the geometry requires too small a piece of tile in the corner. It’s better to lose a little in the area than to admire a two-centimeter "stub" for many years. If the angles in the visual plan are equal, it may be worth reducing the trim to the edges, and the same. Although there are certain design rules, in fact, the point in the question is put by the owner’s taste.

Vertical layout is based on the rule of the whole tile at the top. But, again, there are exceptions, so be guided by common sense. Do not forget to consider the height of the floor and ceiling, as well as inter-tile seams. Over a considerable area, with apparent insignificance, the latter play a large role, accumulating in total up to several centimeters.

Popular tile laying methods.

It is unlikely that you will start with the last method, it is the most difficult. The second imitates masonry, gluing tiles in this way is the easiest. The most popular type is the first, it requires careful observance of the vertical and horizontal, any deviation will be noticeable.
Good video about the correct layout:

Gluing, as a rule, should begin with the second or third row. This is due to the fact that it is correct to cover the wall tile:

  • it looks better
  • water flowing from the walls does not flow into the contour seams,
  • cutting wall ceramics is much easier

If you have already laid the floor (even though this order is not according to the rules), start laying tiles on the wall from the bottom. But this option is unlikely, do not forget about the whole tile under the ceiling. Unless the height of the walls allows you to do without cropping.
Having decided on the lighthouse row, “punch” the marks of the upper edge of the first row using the water level. The presence of a laser will facilitate the work, but the tool is specific, and there is no point in buying it specifically. A plastic tube is much cheaper, and if you don’t have to lay tiles on a large area, forget about the laser. Surely you know about the principle of communicating vessels, so we will not dwell on the work of the hydraulic level.

Mark the horizon immediately around the perimeter, make sure that there are no troubles with possible trimming around the pipes. Sometimes it is required to shift marks to avoid a difficult cut. Further on the marks you can:

  • pull the beacon cord
  • draw a solid line

The first option is still preferable, as it allows complete control over the horizon and plane. We will make a reservation that the facing of walls on a solution involves only this item. The plumb line will help to control the vertical, or more often when tiling with glue, the same line, but already along the Y axis.

We begin laying with 2 rows. We get the horizon level and step back from the floor to the height of 1 row + the thickness of the floor tiles + the thickness of the glue.

Чтобы плитка не сползала вниз, крепим по меткам профиль 27х28 мм. В этой ванне выбрана равномерная раскладка от центра, чтобы по краям получились 2 одинаковых подрезки.

Укладка плитки

It is necessary to glue on tile glue which corresponds to the task. Kneading with your own hands does not allow you to quickly bring the mixture to the desired consistency, so use a mixer. Apply the composition to the base or tile with a spatula. After applying, remove excess glue with a comb, as a result, an even layer of furrows will remain on the surface. Choose a notched trowel based on the size of the tile and the plane of the base. The larger the plate and the worse the plane, the larger the teeth on the tool should be.

Apply glue to the tile with a spatula.

We remove the excess with a comb with teeth of 6 mm.

Tile with a uniform layer of glue is pressed against a dry primed wall.

Insert 2 mm crosses into the tile seams.

After a day, the support bar is dismantled and the bottom row of tiles is laid.

Tile cutting

In most cases, a manual tile cutter is enough for trimming. In difficult places, a grinder with a diamond disk on a tile comes to the rescue.

Thus, they cut straightforwardly, but facing the walls with tiles suggests a figured cut. Cut holes for pipes with a diamond wheel grinder. If there are few holes, and there is no angle grinder, you can use a cheap diamond-coated blade. But this is a laborious and lengthy business, and is justified only economically.


After laying the tiles on the wall and floor, the seams are cleaned of glue and rubbed with a special composition. Grout is applied to the rubber spatula and the gaps between the plates are filled with the mixture. Depending on the material and craftsmanship, 1-4 square meters are processed in one approach. The remains are cleaned with a foam sponge. Her aggregate is brought to a smooth state, distributing the grout evenly at the seams.

When grouting, keep the spatula at an angle of 15-30 ° and fill the joints tightly with the mixture.

Some recommendations

Do-it-yourself wall cladding that you have mastered at a basic level requires an understanding of the nuances. Some of them:

  • Before laying the tile, check its quality, geometry and calibration. Sort by size to make it easier to get even seams.
  • Thoroughly prepare the surface, do not spare the primer and observe right angles.
  • On outside corners, use plastic corners. Although it is not so beautiful, it is safe.
  • Glue the tiles on a dry surface.

The cost of lining the bathroom with an area of ​​3.5 m²:

  • 2 guide profiles 27x28 mm - 90 rubles.
  • Vetonit Easy Fix tile adhesive (25 kg x 3 pcs) - 717 rubles.
  • The soil strengthening Plitonite of 1 l. - 98 rubles.
  • 300 pcs of plastic crosses 2 mm - 60 rubles.
  • Grout Kiilto 3 kg - 320 rubles.
  • Self-tapping screws, dowels - 20 rubles.

Total laying cost us 1305 rubles + the cost of tiles and preparatory work (plastering). If you do wall cladding with your own hands, you will need to spend money on missing tools. For wall cladding in a bathroom of such an area, the tiler will take at least 13-15 thousand rubles along with grout. Everyone will decide to buy a tool that will remain with you forever and do everything yourself, or pay for the work of a master and calmly drink tea during installation.

  1. How to lay the tiles correctly on the floor: practical workshop
  2. Do-it-yourself tile laying in the bathroom: master class
  3. How to choose the right tiles for the bathroom

Preparing the wall for laying tiles

Regardless of whether expensive or cheap tiles are laid on the wall, the quality of the finished surface will largely depend on how well the rough foundation is prepared. With a perfectly even base, the process of gluing tiles to the walls takes place much faster, which is why hired craftsmen often increase the price for their work in the presence of large irregularities on the walls. To save time and nerves, pay special attention to all the steps before installing the tile.

So, the preparation of the wall for laying the tiles begins with checking its evenness and, if necessary, aligning it. By a long rule and a water level, walls in several places are checked for the presence of large gaps, blockages and drops. Small irregularities on the wall surface (up to 1-2 cm) can be leveled with tile adhesive directly during installation, however, you need to understand that this requires some experience. In addition, the time for tile work with this approach increases significantly. Therefore, for a beginner, the best option would be a quality foundation preparation, since it is much easier to do it yourself.

As a rule, alignment is carried out using plastering, but a method is also common in which the walls are aligned by erecting drywall constructions, on which a tile is mounted on a perfectly flat surface.

The process of self-plastering the walls of the lighthouses, we examined in a separate detailed article, which is required to be read before finishing. It is only worth noting that in wet rooms it is not recommended to use gypsum-based compounds for plastering. This is due to the ability of gypsum to absorb water, which is fraught with the formation of fungus on the walls.

If the surface of the wall is quite smooth and does not require plaster, make its mandatory cleaning. To do this, the wall is cleaned with a spatula to a plaster layer, while completely removing the remains of old paint, whitewash, exfoliated pieces of plaster, embroidering all chips and cracks. All these shortcomings are covered with ordinary tile glue until a smooth surface is obtained. The presence of crumbling sections or areas with old paint or whitewashing significantly worsens the contact of tile adhesive with the wall.

After leveling the walls, they are primed. The primer, absorbed into the plaster layer, improves the adhesion of the tile adhesive to the base, binds all dust, and also prevents the appearance of fungus on the wall surface. The primer is applied to the wall with an ordinary roller or a wide brush in several layers, allowing it to completely absorb into the plaster.

To better contact the tiles with the wall, special compositions are often used with the addition of coarse river sand or granite chips. Such a composition - concrete contact - creates a rough structure on a flat wall surface, which contributes to better adhesion of the coating to the base. If it is impossible to purchase concrete contact, it is necessary to make notches on the plaster so that the adhesive composition is better fixed on the wall.

Choosing ceramic tiles for walls

The selection of tiles is an important step not only in terms of the design approach. It so happened that the lower the price of the tile, the worse its geometric shape, which in turn leads to difficulties in laying it. When laying tiles of irregular shape, it is difficult to get the same seams and a smooth surface without differences. This leads to the fact that when using such a material it is difficult to achieve a thin seam at the joints of tiles. Therefore, if the size of the seams is of great importance to you, choose either foreign samples or domestic tiles in the price range above the average. The photo below shows the differences in the form of tiles from one pack:

Close attention needs to be paid to the tile format. Laying out large-format tiles alone will be quite problematic. In addition, with a lack of experience, you may encounter cost overruns, which at high cost of such tiles will lead to unjustified costs. For beginners, the tilers will most conveniently work with small and medium format tiles.

In addition to dimensions, the shape of the ceramic is also important. When choosing its type, you need to rely on the design of the project for the future premises and the need for trim. For example, when using a wide rectangular tile in a narrow room, you may encounter either the need to paste small fragments in the corner, or the need to double the number of tiles to finish this wall.

All these nuances are individual for each specific room and project, therefore there is no universal solution for all rooms.

When choosing a tile, it often happens that the option you like is designed for laying on the floor. It is not forbidden to lay floor tiles on the wall, but such tiles are often made of porcelain stoneware, which is several times stronger than ordinary ceramic tiles and more difficult to trim and drill. This must be taken into account, since when laying wall tiles, there are much more undercuttings than when laying floor tiles.

The last tip when choosing a tile is that when buying, you need to check the lot numbers on each pack of material and purchase only one article number and a lot number, since this will save you from differences in the color scheme of a particular lot.

Tile Sort

Before directly laying the tiles, they are sorted in order to determine the marriage, tiles of irregular shape, which differs from others in size and color shades. This procedure is carried out for both cheap and expensive tiles. High-quality smooth tiles are used in places that are in sight. Tiles with flaws or minor defects are allowed to trim, or used in hidden places.

Cutting and trimming tiles

If there are even walls and the right sizes in the room, experienced craftsmen cut tiles to all walls at once in accordance with a pre-designed layout. This is done in order to save time and not to cut tiles after gluing each subsequent row.

If you are not sure that you will be able to get into the dimensions, taking into account all the errors and the thickness of the seams, we recommend that you cut in place to avoid errors.

Laying ceramic tiles on the wall

The process begins with the layout of the room. As for the horizontal layout, it is determined by a pre-prepared layout scheme. All that remains for you to do is to precisely cut the tiles according to size. When marking vertically there may be several options.

As a rule, laying wall tiles does not start from the floor itself, but from the second row, this is done to get a perfectly even row, which cannot be done when laying out from an uneven floor. But often the layout is done so that the beginning of the tile is on one level with the top edge of the bath, in which case the starting row is measured taking into account the size of the bath.

There can be many variants of tile layouts, therefore, in the simplest version, the marking of the second row is done this way: they put off a distance equal to the thickness of the floor tile and the adhesive layer (6-8 mm with a flat floor) from the floor and take this point as the level of the future finish floor. A distance equal to the sum of the heights of the wall tile and the seam between the floor and wall tiles is laid off from the level of the finishing floor. A line is drawn at the resulting point around the entire perimeter of the room. It will correspond to the lower boundary of the seam between the tiles of the first and second row.

The first row of tiles will be glued last, after laying all the wall and floor tiles. In case of an error in the calculations, this row can be cut without affecting the appearance, since the joint at the bottom is filled with sealant and will be invisible.

A metal profile is mounted on the wall along the border of the marked line, on which the first working row of tiles will be installed, and which will prevent them from sliding down. After the adhesive has hardened, the profile can be dismantled.

After marking and preparation, they begin to knead the tile glue. Here you need to pay attention to two points - the consistency and quantity. The glue consistency is chosen so that the ridges after distribution with a notched trowel do not spread, but are not too thick. The composition should be flexible and easy to apply on the wall. The amount of solution is selected so that its life time does not end until it is fully used. The life time of the solution is indicated on the packaging, after this time the adhesive loses its elasticity and dries. If you do not have much experience in laying tiles, we recommend kneading a small amount of glue first, then the required amount will come with experience.

The tile is laid, starting from the corner of the wall, on an even layer of glue, which is applied with a notched trowel to the wall. If there are even walls, the adhesive must be applied only to the wall. In the presence of irregularities, the glue is applied both to the wall and to the tile itself with an ordinary spatula and leveled with a notched trowel. Modern technology for the production of ceramic tiles does not require that it is wetted before laying. On the contrary, this can lead to a violation of its proper adjacency to the wall.

In order to observe the parallelism of the planes of the tile and the wall in the horizontal direction (in the vertical, this parameter is controlled by the bubble level) in the first row, you need to mount the so-called beacon tile. To do this, the whole tile or any trim is temporarily mounted in the opposite side of the wall. After that, a long rule is applied to the first and beacon tiles. If there are gaps between the rule and the plane of the tiles, then their position is adjusted until the gaps are completely eliminated. In parallel with these, the verticality of the installation of tiles should be controlled.

After gluing the first ceramic element, the second one is mounted on the same principle, checking the correctness of its installation by the rule and level, not forgetting, in addition to parallelism, to control the horizontal level of gluing. After that, the beacon tile can be dismantled, and control should be carried out on two already installed tiles.

At the junction between the two tiles, plastic crosses must be installed to adjust the gap between them. Crosses must also be installed under the tiles to simulate the seam between the current row and the first row, which will be mounted at the very end. In addition to the seams, crosses are installed in the crosshairs between the tiles, to form the correct adjacencies. It is worth removing them immediately after the tile glue begins to set and dry. If you wait until the glue has completely dried, removing the plastic from the joints can be a problem.

The entire subsequent installation process is repeated in the same way. It is important at each stage to control the vertical and horizontal installation of the tile and adjust its position if necessary.

After laying all the wall tiles and drying the glue, they proceed to cleaning the joints and filling them with grout. To do this, it is convenient to use a small spatula. The grout is rubbed into the seam cavity, evenly distributed and allowed to dry slightly. After a few minutes, the grout moistened with a sponge is gently rubbed until a smooth, even seam is formed. After that, it is left to dry completely for about a day. After a day, all excess grout is washed with a wet rag from the tile. It is important not to leave the grout on the tile for several days, as it will be more and more difficult to wipe it every day.

The seam between the floor tiles and the wall, as a rule, is filled not with grout, but with sealant. To do this, choose either a white sanitary sealant or a sealant in the color of the grout. This is done in order to compensate for the thermal expansion of the tile and to avoid cracking of the grout in the joints. This is especially true in the presence of a warm floor in the screed. The video below shows how easy it is to make a neat seam between the wall and the floor using sealant.

As a rule, after laying the tiles with their own hands, many admit that their fears were in vain, because the whole process does not present any particular difficulty. A good help in this matter is the use of a quality tool and good preparation of the rough surface.

Finally, we suggest you watch a video in which the master describes in detail the process of laying wall ceramic tiles: